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BriGuy
Joined: 04 Mar 2006 Posts: 1894 Location: Boston
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Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2009 5:36 pm Post subject: |
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gamerkim28 wrote: | i've looked for the answer, but all i found were questions
if you were to paint the les paul faceplate, what is the proper procedure? |
For best results, sand down the surface until you hit raw plastic. Then use a fine grit sandpaper or sandpaper sponge and wet sand until smooth. Rinse clean and let dry. Then wipe down with rubbing alcohol and then proceed. _________________
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Scapegoat
Joined: 06 Oct 2008 Posts: 10
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Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 9:14 pm Post subject: |
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Hey guys - I'm interested in painting my RB strat body white.
Is this doable with spray paint (or will black always show through turning it grey).
Should I wet sand as advised? (as I assume the guide details painting GH guitars and they have different plastics)
Also will I be able to have a shiny kind of finish like the black plastic has?
Thanks in advance guys!
White will be fine with enough coats. To get a shiny finish, use a clear coat (recommended anyway) and go ahead and wet sand that too. |
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Scapegoat
Joined: 06 Oct 2008 Posts: 10
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Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 11:45 pm Post subject: |
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Does the wet sand just create a better surface for the paint to dry on/adhere too? |
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Slagr
Joined: 11 Oct 2007 Posts: 989 Location: IL
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Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 2:34 am Post subject: |
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You'll want Krylon Fusion paint-- it adheres to plastic the best. After that, put some clear coat on and wet sand that for an optional shinier finish. If you use Fusion you shouldn't need to sand prior to painting, but make sure the surface is clean. _________________
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Scapegoat
Joined: 06 Oct 2008 Posts: 10
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Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 3:57 am Post subject: |
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Slagr wrote: | You'll want Krylon Fusion paint-- it adheres to plastic the best. After that, put some clear coat on and wet sand that for an optional shinier finish. If you use Fusion you shouldn't need to sand prior to painting, but make sure the surface is clean. |
Oh so a wet sand AFTER a clear coat makes it shiny? |
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BriGuy
Joined: 04 Mar 2006 Posts: 1894 Location: Boston
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Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 5:09 am Post subject: |
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Scapegoat wrote: | Oh so a wet sand AFTER a clear coat makes it shiny? |
You got it. It should be relatively shiny after a clear coat anyway, but a nice wet sanding will help it pop. _________________
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Scapegoat
Joined: 06 Oct 2008 Posts: 10
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Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 5:15 am Post subject: |
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BriGuy wrote: | Scapegoat wrote: | Oh so a wet sand AFTER a clear coat makes it shiny? |
You got it. It should be relatively shiny after a clear coat anyway, but a nice wet sanding will help it pop. |
So is it still recommended to do a wet sand before painting on the strats? Or will it still look good regardless of if I do or not? |
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Slagr
Joined: 11 Oct 2007 Posts: 989 Location: IL
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Posted: Thu Apr 16, 2009 8:05 pm Post subject: |
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Scapegoat wrote: | BriGuy wrote: | Scapegoat wrote: | Oh so a wet sand AFTER a clear coat makes it shiny? |
You got it. It should be relatively shiny after a clear coat anyway, but a nice wet sanding will help it pop. |
So is it still recommended to do a wet sand before painting on the strats? Or will it still look good regardless of if I do or not? |
typically a dry sanding is advised before painting, but wet sanding probably wouldn't do much at all. If you use Krylon Fusion paint, you won't need to sand at all. _________________
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Scapegoat
Joined: 06 Oct 2008 Posts: 10
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Posted: Sat Apr 18, 2009 1:35 am Post subject: |
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Just out of interest what does the water do in a wet sand compared to just sanding dry? |
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Scapegoat
Joined: 06 Oct 2008 Posts: 10
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:13 am Post subject: |
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So I've got some supplies (don't have that Kryton Fusion here but I got some spraypaint and clearcoat) but I've hit a bit of a snag.
This is a bit more aimed toward BriGuy ( ) as he made the dissection thread - but is there anyway to get the effects switch knob off? Is it just force or is it glued on. I want to remove the faceplate but obviously it is in th way to let the actual lever for the effects switch through.
Also - I'm faced with the options of either:
a) removing ALL of the innards and exterior stuff and painting the outside.
b) keeping most of the innands in and spraying the outside (with a possibility of some leakthrough hitting some of the parts)
c) keeping most of the innands but screwing both sides of the shell together and painting it
What would be the most advisable route? I'm hesitant to remove EVERYTHING as a lot of items are glued down and I'd have to pry them out and deal with re gluing them. Would some possible mist on the electronics cause any problems?
Would screwing the 2 sides back together to paint be the best solution?
Cheers! |
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BriGuy
Joined: 04 Mar 2006 Posts: 1894 Location: Boston
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 3:59 pm Post subject: |
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The effects selector switch will come off. Use needlenose pliers to hold the stem and regular pliers to grip the head and pull straight off. They are not glued, but are very snug, and can be put right back on without any glue.
I'd recommend taking all of the electronics out and just paint the shell. Most of the guts do not really need to be glued in to hold them in place, but just some duct tape can easily replace the glue. There are a few parts that could be ruined by paint including the effects selector, whammy bar, and strum bar. So yeah pretty much everything can get gummed up if you are not careful. Once taken apart, it will be a lot easier to work with too. _________________
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Scapegoat
Joined: 06 Oct 2008 Posts: 10
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Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 12:39 am Post subject: |
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BriGuy wrote: | The effects selector switch will come off. Use needlenose pliers to hold the stem and regular pliers to grip the head and pull straight off. They are not glued, but are very snug, and can be put right back on without any glue.
I'd recommend taking all of the electronics out and just paint the shell. Most of the guts do not really need to be glued in to hold them in place, but just some duct tape can easily replace the glue. There are a few parts that could be ruined by paint including the effects selector, whammy bar, and strum bar. So yeah pretty much everything can get gummed up if you are not careful. Once taken apart, it will be a lot easier to work with too. |
Thanks for the tip - got the effects switch knob off.
I've done a patch on the inside of one of the shells to get an idea of the colour and finish before I commit to painting the outside. About 2 coats in (on top of the first light tack coat) and I notice that I get a lot of... stray dust/air particles landing and drying on the paint. Obviously this is not preferred - is there any way around this? |
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Slagr
Joined: 11 Oct 2007 Posts: 989 Location: IL
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Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 9:21 pm Post subject: |
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you can sand between coats with a very fine grain, but make sure you remove sanded dust before adding more coats. _________________
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Scapegoat
Joined: 06 Oct 2008 Posts: 10
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Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 10:54 pm Post subject: |
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Slagr wrote: | you can sand between coats with a very fine grain, but make sure you remove sanded dust before adding more coats. |
Is ~500 fine enough?
Wet or dry sand? |
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Slagr
Joined: 11 Oct 2007 Posts: 989 Location: IL
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Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 1:36 am Post subject: |
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Scapegoat wrote: | Slagr wrote: | you can sand between coats with a very fine grain, but make sure you remove sanded dust before adding more coats. |
Is ~500 fine enough?
Wet or dry sand? |
yes, and dry probably. wet is only for additional luster after clear coat. _________________
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